The best way to sum up my whirlwind, ever-too-short trip to Italy last week: I got a total of 6 hours of sleep in an 89 hour time period. That is precisely how busy, over-stimulated and excited I was. Also, you should know: Heaven does exist. We found it.
I spontaneously decided to meet my sister in Italy for Easter. I spent a lot of time helping her plan her trip and even though I’ve been to Napoli before, I simply could not imagine not being there for all that I planned. Flights were absurdly expensive, but I knew I would not regret going. I was right.
My flight left at 06:25 a.m. on Easter Sunday morning, meaning I had to be up at 03:00. I did not sleep AT ALL the night before – literally not even for one minute. I met my sister and her two friends in Rome and we went to eat lunch.
Originally, I wanted to use our few hours in Rome to eat gelato and go to the Trevi Fountain with my sister, but that didn’t quite work out. First of all, the weather was awful – it was raining nonstop. Not the type of weather you want to be walking around in and certainly not gelato weather! Please keep in mind, the previous 6 consecutive days in Dublin were full of nonstop rain and without sun. Horrible weather and I was desperate for sun – my bones were cold! I figured I could count on Italy for sun. Instead, our first day in Italy was raining and cold and the cherry on top!: it was sunny in Dublin. I was starving because I had been up for 10 hours at this point and had yet to have a proper meal. We took the metro to the city centre. We were frustrated because many places were closed since it was Easter and we were all very hungry. Then it started raining harder and we stood there staring at each other in frustration. We ended up finding a well-priced, VERY nice restaurant that was packed. We were relieved to be out of the rain and ordering food. We ordered our food and finally started to relax when my sister & I looked at the time – panic set in instantly. We realised we did NOT have time to sit there and eat… we needed to go get our bags and head to the train station NOW. What an awkward situation in such a nice restaurant, where so many families were having their Easter lunch around us. We could not risk missing our train to Naples. I was completely panicked – my face, neck and chest instantly flushed a shocking red and I didn’t know what to do. Should we ask for our food take away? Should we wait and eat really fast and hope we make our train? After debating, I went downstairs and explained our situation and just wanted to make them aware that we were in a rush. They said no problem, it will be ready in 10 minutes. I hated this – food in Italy is an art and I hate rushing my favourite art form!!!
I went back upstairs and 10 minutes later, the food wasn’t ready, so I had no choice but to go downstairs and pay and ask for it take away. They don’t normally do take away at a place like this, they didn’t even have plastic cutlery. Great, so now we were stuck with delicious pasta that was bound to go cold and nothing to eat it with. Not to mention I was past starving and simply didn’t have time to eat. Looking back, we SHOULD have just gone to a restaurant near the apartment and had a nice relaxing lunch. Instead, I wasted money on a return metro ticket, caused ourselves panic and delayed lunch. When we finally got to the train station (completely soaked), I got an espresso served with multiple “bella!”s and that solved (almost) everything. We were finally able to eat our lunch on the nearly empty train.
I was utterly ecstatic to arrive in Napoli. The last time I was here was 4 years ago this month. I loved it the first time and had no idea I could love it even more. Naples is not a very popular destination among tourists – most people do not like it. Some areas are dirty and dangerous, the mafia is there, “there isn’t much to see” – these are all things I’ve heard from friends who have visited Naples. I was very lucky my first time visiting because I couchsurfed and my host quickly became one of my very good friends who was able to show me why Naples is the best city in Italy. I also couchsurfed with two hosts in Rome who are both from Naples, so they spread their contagious love for Napoli to me. I am forever thankful for these beautiful people and experiences.
Reasons to love Napoli:
1) It’s the food capital of the world.
If you want to eat the best Italian food in the world, GO TO NAPLES. Food throughout the rest of Italy does not compare. I cannot emphasise this enough. This is where the margherita pizza was invented and once you’ve had a pizza in Napoli, you will never want to eat pizza elsewhere. I exaggerate, but any other pizza will not compare! Every ingredient tastes like heaven, right down to the herbs (basil!) and the tomatoes. Please do not get me started on the mozzarella di bufala. And the limoncello.
2) It isn’t touristy.
Tourists tend to avoid staying in the city of Naples (or if they do, they don’t stay long). They tend to pass through to get to the many nearby attractions. A lot of Neapolitans do not speak English (in comparison to, say, Rome), but this is part of the fun. Neapolitans are lovely, friendly people. You will feel like you’re in “real” Italy.
3) There is SO much to see and do!!!
Amalfi Coast, Sorrento, Capri, Pompeii, Mount Vesuvius, Herculaneum, need I go on? The city centre of Naples itself is beautiful to see.
4) It is beautiful.
Yes, there are dirty areas of Naples, just like any other city. There are also many extremely beautiful parts of Naples. You just need to know where to go.
I think you now know how much I love Napoli. There is a feeling I get when I’m there – just so alive and full of happiness.
We took the metro to our apartment (my sister chose an Airbnb apartment for us) and walking up the street our apartment was on, I got extremely emotional. There were so many “wow”s and “oh my gosh”s and “this is unbelievably beautiful”s from the four of us on this walk up the hill. Located in an absolutely stunning area near the designer shopping area of Napoli, our apartment was more than we could have asked for. When we walked in, I began to cry. Beautiful doesn’t even begin to describe this place and perfect would be an understatement. You know how hotels and guesthouses always have stunning photos on their websites and when you arrive, you’re always disappointed because the place never looks like the photos? This was not the case at all. Our place looked EXACTLY like the photos. Our host welcomed us and showed us everything we needed to know. I decided right then and there that I WOULD return to this place for a proper holiday and heck, I even want to honeymoon here, even if it’s with myself. I never wanted to leave. We found Heaven.
We quickly got ready for the highlight of my time in Italy (in addition to being reunited with my sister): meeting my two very good friends – the guys I mentioned earlier who hosted me in Rome four years ago and are originally from Napoli. They were home for Easter and I will forever be grateful that they took time from their holiday to meet us that evening. It was a truly fantastic reunion – they are two of my favourite people that I’ve ever met on my travels. We went out for dinner and enjoyed mozzarella di bufala, massive margherita pizzas, Pastiera Napoletana (a traditional Italian Easter cake) and limoncello. FOOD HEAVEN. Afterwards, we showed them our gorgeous apartment and the guys gave the girls lessons in Neapolitan language. We shared stories and laughs and many amazing hugs that night. It was a truly beautiful night that was easily the highlight of my time in Italy. I slept 3 hours that night.
The next day, we hired a private driver to take us to Mount Vesuvius and the Amalfi Coast. Gerry from Sorrento First Choice Car Service was our driver and I honestly can’t recommend him enough. He was fantastic. We were chauffeured around in a Mercedes all day from 8:30-5:30 and it was nice to sit back and relax and enjoy the views while learning all kinds of interesting historical facts. When we got to the car park on Vesuvius, we got out of the car and were in complete and utter shock – IT WAS SNOWING. IN APRIL. This never happens. Our driver laughed at us and jumped back in the car. He said he’s been doing this job a long time and has rarely seen it snow up there during non-winter months. GREAT. I almost forgot to bring a jacket that morning (it’s only thanks to D for the reminder that I ran back to grab it!) but it honestly wasn’t enough. There were hurricane-force winds up there. Combine that with the snow and it constantly felt like my eyeballs were being sliced. It was really, really painful. I roared like a dinosaur the whole time fighting the winds. It was hard to appreciate the crater because we couldn’t look that direction (against the wind) for more than a split second. If it weren’t for the weather, it would have been a very enjoyable climb. Having said that, it was an amazing experience to be standing on the top of an active volcano that is (over)due to erupt at any time. Seeing the smoke come out of the crater and the volcanic ash from the last eruption in 1944 was incredible. We were completely frozen by the time we got to the bottom so we asked Gerry to blast the heat (that’s how you know I’m cold, because I HATE heat in cars!!!). We really weren’t expecting this in Italy!
Afterwards, we went to Ravello (which was very cold!), Amalfi and Positano. Traffic was horrendous because it was one of the biggest Italian holidays of the year – Easter Monday. We were very sad that the sun wasn’t out – we never dreamed we’d be wearing winter clothes along the coast – but we were very grateful it wasn’t raining! When we were approaching Positano, the sun came out and glistened and made Positano look like sparkling gold. The Amalfi Coast is a place I will never tire of returning to. It blew me away the first time I saw it and can’t imagine it ever not impressing me. It’s easy to see why it’s known as one of the most beautiful coastal drives in the world.
I bought lemons and one cedro to bring home with me. I also had my first crema di limoncello (delicious!!) and bought a cannoli for later. Gerry dropped us off at the Sorrento train station and we took the Circumvesuviana train back to Naples. I had read horrible things about this train line – that it’s one of the worst places for pick-pocketing and good luck getting a seat: it’s more like a metro at rush-hour. I was slightly dreading it but ready for the adventure. It turned out to be one of the best train rides of our lives! We each got a seat easily, it wasn’t packed at all and everyone on the train seemed sound. We laughed for the duration of the train (one hour), partly because we were delirious from exhaustion, partly because 40 minutes into the train ride, S decided to go sit across from a cute Italian boy (who had been on the train the entire time we had). The girl has guts and it was wonderful entertainment for us.
We were determined to get to a restaurant called Sorbillo, the best pizza in Naples (I’ve never been)! I checked their website earlier and it said they were open. It took us ages to navigate and get there but once we did, they were closed. I don’t really want to relive this earth-shattering moment, but it was really disappointing. Dearest Napoli, next time I am in you, I’M COMING FOR YA SORBILLO! Be prepared. At this point, we were beyond exhausted. We had 2 metros to get in order to get home. We took the first one successfully and missed the second one by a few seconds at 9:32 p.m. I wasn’t worried at all about that being the last one, because there were at least 100 locals waiting with us on the platform for the next one. We waited there for over one hour. ONE HOUR. The metro never came. We decided to leave because people had been smoking the majority of the time and since there is no air down there, we could no longer breath. I asked a guard if there were any more metros and he said no, they were finished. Nice. I wanted to avoid getting a taxi because I didn’t want to get ripped off, which I always assumed would happen in Naples. We got a taxi and it was grand – I recognised the way home from earlier that morning with Gerry. We had a lovely taxi driver and were not ripped off. I slept 3 hours that night.
The next day, I got up at 7:30 and went for the most incredible walk (alone). It was a beautiful, sunny day (why couldn’t it have been sunny the day before!?) I walked along the sea, ate breakfast (croissant filled with cream and an espresso) outside in the sun along the sea, made new friends (in the coffee shop) and made them happy telling them how much I love their city, walked along the designer-shop-filled streets and just soaked up the beauty of Napoli. I tried to change my train back to Rome to a later time but all trains were sold out. We all got the train together but I was separated from my sister and the girls. I was in first class because that is all that was available when I bought my ticket. It was a funny experience – everyone was dressed in designer suits and dresses and I was wearing trainers.
I bid the girls adieu and enjoyed a few hours in Rome. I got gelato at Giolitti, wandered the beautiful random streets and lanes, went to see the horrible construction work at the Trevi Fountain (it was worse than I imagined) and ate bruschetta and soup in the sun. I wasn’t home until 1 a.m. the next morning.
It was a truly beautiful (but all too short) three days in Italy. It meant a lot to me to be able to share the beauty of Napoli (the food, people and scenery) with my sister and her two lovely friends. I learned this four years ago: once you visit Italy, it ruins you in so many wonderful ways. I already cannot wait to return.